How Filigree Jewellery is Made

Filigree objects and jewellery have always been admired for their elegance and lightness. Let’s uncover the secrets of this millennia-old technique, which is still practiced today by master goldsmiths and artisans.

What could be more beautiful, delicate, and elegant than filigree jewellery? The filigree technique is ancient and can be found in many civilisations and cultures, even those far removed from each other. It was already popular among the Phoenicians and, according to some sources, invented by the Arabs, though it was also practiced in ancient India and even South America. The Egyptians created lightweight chain designs with gold and silver wire using the openwork technique, while the Etruscans crafted delicate and exquisite filigree ornaments using the stamping technique, employing thin sheets coated with granules of precious metal.

But what exactly is filigree, and how is it made? Filigree decorations and jewellery are created by working precious metals into thin wires. Essentially, a gold or silver ingot is transformed into filaments that are then twisted or intertwined to form a design. The term “filigree” comes from the Latin “filum,” meaning thread, and “granum,” meaning grain, but it began to be used to describe this type of craftsmanship only from the 1600s onwards.

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Filigree

Take a look at our filigree jewellery

What is the filigree technique?

To understand how filigree jewellery is made, we must identify the various steps involved in the process.

Melting

First, the metal must be melted. It is heated to a very high temperature, melted in a crucible, and then poured into a mould. At this stage, the master artisan may choose to combine the precious metal with other harder, more durable metals to facilitate the work and increase hardness. This creates alloys, which in turn result in different types of gold with varying colours and shades (yellow, white, rose, etc.).

Rolling and Drawing

The metal, once cooled into bars in the moulds, is then reduced into extremely thin wires through successive passes in a rolling mill. This tool consists of two heavy metal cylinders rotating in opposite directions, which minimise the metal’s thickness. It is then passed through a drawplate and die, tools designed to further reduce the metal into ultra-thin wires, down to 0.15 mm in diameter! During the process, the wire must be annealed repeatedly to keep it soft and malleable while making it more resistant to stretching.

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800 silver filigree Virgin Mary silver pendant

Silver pendant with Virgin Mary loop in 800 silver filigree 1 cm wide.

Twisting, Shaping, and Filling

Next comes twisting the wire to create the desired design. Thin wires are typically braided into a very fine strand, which is then flattened and twisted. This twisting is done on a board. In Sardinian filigree craftsmanship, the technique can be “openwork” (transparent), without a supporting base for the filigree except for the main structure, consisting of slightly thicker wires forming the object’s frame (“scafatura”), which is filled with intricate shapes and metallic wire patterns called “rizzetti,” “panetti,” “resche,” or “ramette” (“filling”). Alternatively, it can be “closed,” where the twisted and shaped wire is micro-soldered onto a base.

The final result is an elegant openwork design, light as fabric, which can either stand alone or be set onto a precious base.

Today, alternative methods are also used to create filigree, such as the lost wax technique, which has been used since ancient times for bronze sculpture casting. A wax sheet is engraved against the light, then worked with engraving tools to form the desired image. Once the engraving is complete, the wax is coated with a thin layer of refractory material (called a “shell”) and heated to a temperature slightly above the melting point. The wax melts and exits the shell, creating a mould that can be used to produce filigree objects.

How is filigree worked?

Once the filigree is ready, the work is completed with finishing touches. The various semi-finished elements and parts of the jewellery are assembled to create different ornaments, which are then refined through whitening in a kiln and acid baths.

Alternatively, the pieces may undergo gilding, silvering, rhodium plating, enamelling, or even the application of gemstones. Finally, the jewellery is polished to give the metal a bright and luminous finish.

What materials are used to make filigree jewellery?

In the past, silver and gold were mainly used. As mentioned earlier, gold was often combined with other metals to form more resistant alloys. Today, brass is also widely used. Filigree jewellery is then decorated with precious stones, mother-of-pearl, and coral.

Holyart’s catalogue of filigree products

Sacred art has always appreciated filigree jewellery and objects for their elegance and lightness. In our online store, you’ll find a wide range of products made with this ancient art by skilled artisans.

Filigree jewellery on Holyart

An elegant sacred piece of jewellery, but also suitable for daily wear and for younger people, the “bracelet with ten beads” in gold-plated 925 silver consists of a classic chain with crafted beads, adorned with a fine filigree cross. More elaborate is the “Pendant Cross” in 800/1000 silver filigree, a splendid antique-style jewel entirely handmade by master artisans. Made of filigree silver and then decorated with gold plating, this pendant is a masterpiece of Italian craftsmanship.

Entirely crafted in Italy by a family-run company, the “Rosary in 800 silver filigree and agate” is a significant piece, ideal as a gift for a special occasion. It is enriched with beautiful semi-precious stones.

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Rosary in 800 sterling silver filigree and agate 11 mm

Rosary in 800 sterling silver filigree and agate 11 mm

Chalices, Ciboria, and Patens decorated with filigree on Holyart

Filigree has always been used to decorate sacred furnishings and liturgical accessories, such as ciboria, patens, and chalices.

The “Chalice in 800 silver filigree with a relief dedicated to the Good Shepherd” is a truly precious object, entirely made of 800 silver and adorned with gold plating and lapis stones. Made in Italy by a company with years of experience in silver craftsmanship, it weighs 1,073.4 grams. This is a high-quality product, entirely handmade by experienced and skilled artisans.

The “Chalice in 800 silver with filigree and lapis lazuli” is another unique piece with a distinctive and refined design. The square base is entirely crafted in silver filigree, and the chalice weighs a total of 601 grams.

More modern and unique is the “Chalice with a blue node” in gold-plated brass, featuring filigree and synthetic stones. It is enhanced with galvanic silver and 24k gold finishes and characterised by an elegant ultramarine blue node separating the cup and base. The latter is finely chiselled and satin-finished. The precious decorations are in silver filigree, enriched with red and blue synthetic stones. Many steps in its production were completed by hand, including chiselling, turning, and galvanic baths in gold and silver. The manufacturing company is a renowned Italian excellence appreciated abroad. The chalice is 21 cm tall, with a cup diameter of 13 cm and a capacity of 280 ml.

The exquisite “Low Ciborium in satin-finished gold-plated brass decorated with filigree and stones” is another handcrafted piece made in Italy by a company that has upheld nearly a century of tradition in the religious sector. Known for its high quality and refined products, this company enjoys an international clientele. The ciborium is made of gold-plated brass via a 24k gold galvanic bath and features an elegant satin-finished sub-cup adorned with Gothic-style silver filigree designs and splendid synthetic red stones. The cup is decorated with blue stones. The ciborium is 5.5 cm high, with a diameter of 17 cm, and can hold approximately 250 hosts.

The “Bicolour Paten decorated with filigree and red and blue stones” is made of polished brass with a galvanic silver and 24k gold finish. Crafted by expert Italian artisans, it features a central circular space and a raised edge adorned with four silver filigree decorations and synthetic red stones interspersed with blue ones.

Chalice in Silver 800 filigree with lapis lazuli, Good Shepherd Buy on Holyart

Chalice in Silver 800 filigree, square base and lapis lazuli Buy on Holyart

Filigree gold plated brass chalice blue node and stones Buy on Holyart

Low open ciborium in satin finish with golden brass stones Buy on Holyart

Bicolored paten filigree and blue and red stones 7 in Buy on Holyart

Chalice in Silver 800 filigree with lapis lazuli, Good Shepherd Buy on Holyart